With New York fashion week done and dusted, we move swiftly onto the other side of the Atlantic ocean to see what London has to offer for SS15 and of course, London doesn’t disappoint.
Jonathan, Creative Director of Leather Luxury house Loewe, was one of the first to debut the brand J.W. Anderson at London Fashion week. It was perhaps of no little surprise that leather played a huge role in his spring/summer collection which isn’t particularly the obvious choice in terms of fabric when spring rolls around. However, only a few of his designs were head to toe leather, with one of a favourite pieces being the pastel pink, dishevelled top and skirt combo with slight rusching on the sleeves and a more deliberate gathering around the neckline. The obvious elements within his collection were asymmetry whether it be hemlines or large buttons down one side, large lapels accompanied with even larger leathered fisherman style hats and leather midriffs strategically placed which gives the impression of a corsetted silhouette. The colour palette Johnathan opted for was similar to some of the collections we saw in New York, mainly neautra; black, white,navy, grey with the odd dash of crimson, muted green, pastel pink as mentioned above and a pop of bright orange.
Matthew Williamson showcased a collection that was true to form; flirty, floral, feminine and quite frankly, utterly fabulous. Never one to shy away from colour, Williamson delivered a range with conventional spring time shades such as your pastels complimented with darker, more richer tones such as jade green and deep burgandy. There was a strong retro vibe which brought about a 70’s feel to his collection, which would make sense as apparently his muse for the range was former model American model, Marie Helvin.
Burberry brought us a collection that we’d all expect from a Spring Summer collection; bright colours, soft textures and fashion with a twist. This season, and by this season we mean next Spring Summer of course, Christopher Bailey adopted the staple denim jacket which usually emerges when the temperature starts to climb, and made it his own, or rather, Burberry’s own. Whether it was fleeced lined or trimmed with feathers, or a patchwork style with contrasting textures on collars and pockets, the denim jacket makeover is definitely on the agenda for Spring. Not to forget the rest of the collection; tiers of tulle; tulle twisted and tied to the waistline to create soft looking bows; and dipped dyed sheer fabric put the feminine stamp on Bailey’s collection. Aside from the denim jacket being the common thread in the range, the choice of footwear was interesting too. Trainers! Yes, not the obvious choice of footwear to compliment the soft, pretty silhouettes but perhaps quite a good choice to go with the reinvented denim jackets.
There was a kind of a rebellious vibe at the Tom Ford show and it might have been to do with the colour palette. It was pretty much all black with the occasional splash of metallic and sequins and two white dresses. Ford is another designer that looked retropectively for inspiration; part rock ‘n’ roll, part 70’s glam and part bondage! There was a lot of skin on show with sheer fabric leaving very little to the imagination, along with contrasting textures and finishes, most notably leather. It appears that the 70’s and leather are the common trend for Spring Summer 2015.
Last but certainly not least, Topshop under the label Topshop Unique showcased a collection that was fresh, young and fun. There were two different trends seen at Topshop Unique; A strong sports influence with colour-blocked pieces in a primary palette, accessorised with leather bowling bags. A-line skirts with frills and pleats, and cropped boxy jackets and varying widths of stripes both horizontal and vertical were the main features on the sports front. The other trend was a somewhat softer silhouette and definitely more giriler compared to the sport luxe trend seen earlier, with wrapover dresses edged with pretty ruffles, abstract floral prints in pale yellow and navy, and fluid, flowing textures. Our favourite pieces from the collecition were the sheer slip dresses embellished with no more than a strategical scattering of swarovski crystals.